Finding Fresh in Fukushima

“Please don’t put up English signs!” the young American couple pleaded with me. We were enjoying some drinks after a backcountry trip together in Myoko. It was fifteen years ago and they had just been to Niseko and Hakuba and said they preferred the more Japanese experience here.

Having been to Niseko and Hakuba several times since then, I know what they meant. The snow can be great, and a few niches of Japan remain, but foreign investment is everywhere, with lots of generic glass and steel buildings and condos that could be at any international ski resort anywhere in the world.

Developers are now touting plans to invest US$12 billion (or was that 20 billion?) into Myoko with quotes in newspapers claiming it will be “the next Aspen” (or was it Whistler?). The numbers and the story changes so we’ll have to wait and see what actually materializes, but the influx of foreign influence is evident. Whether Myoko can retain its “Japanese-ness” is the big question.

Without question, however, is that many return visitors—like our backcountry couple—and some fresh faces, are looking for ski towns sans the hords of international tourists, where you can still struggle with Japanese menus.

The Aizu-Wakamatsu area of Fukushima is, thankfully, one of these hidden gems. “We don’t speak English well, but we’ll give you a real Japanese experience,” says one tourist brochure I found. “We loved how we were away from the typical popular ski destinations of Japan with too many Australians, and we were pretty much alone among the Japanese,” added a testimonial from a recent Australian visitor.

Surprisingly, Aizu Wakamatsu is easier to get to than the previously mentioned resorts. It is just ninety minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo, then another 30 minutes to one hour by bus or train, depending on the resort. It’s not like the area is underdeveloped, either. There are several major resorts in the region plus many smaller one. Locals will be there on weekends but weekdays are still pretty quiet. While the snow isn’t as heavy—in weight and quantity—as resorts on the Japan Sea side, it is light and there’s plenty of it.

Perhaps one reason people have looked past this area is the aftermath of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. Fukushima as a whole got linked with the disaster at the nuclear plant and the radiation leaks along the coastline. I went to the Aizu Wakamatsu area with Outdoor Japan for a piece back in 2014 where the locals reminded me that this was the area people evacuated to because it was safe then, and it certainly is now.

Outside of skiing, there is a rich history with images of samurai all over the region. Aizu was the center of the last great battle to determine the direction of Japan at the end of the feudal period. Almost no one has heard of the Boshin War, yet they have heard of The Last Samurai, which was based on that conflict between the Tokugawa shogunate (including the samurai order) and the ascending imperial powers around the Meiji emperor. The samurai of Aizu were the last to keep fighting, literally down to the last man, and the area is full of historic sites, starting with the imposing, 400-year-old Tsurugajo Castle.

It is scenic, with several of the ski areas located around Mt. Bandai, a beautiful mountain that looks rounded and soft in one direction, rugged and jagged on the other where an 1888 steam explosion ripped the peak apart. Below are the blue waters of Lake Inawashiro, the fourth-largest lake in Japan, a beautiful sight often dotted with white specks, migrating Siberian swans who winter here.

And the skiing is exceptional. “We didn’t know what to expect, because we hadn’t heard about Aizu, to be honest, but it was great,” says pro skier and videographer Mattias Evangelista. Along with his brother, pro skier Micah, the Evangelistas were invited to visit the area prior to the pandemic, and given fairly free reign to record what they found.

“Right away we met some great local people who took us out into the backcountry at Nekoma, just a short drive from where we were staying near the lake,” Mattias says. “The terrain was really fun. The forests are thick! There were more trees than we found on the Japan Sea side, but we still found really fun lines and spaces where we could do jumps, shoot good shots with the locals cruising around—it was really good.”

The brothers also enjoyed the local culture. “What really struck me was the local love for the sport,” Mattias says. “Nekoma has a relatively small terrain park—maybe it’s big for Japan—but it was packed all day every day and the stoke was high! It was a blast riding the lifts with the locals and feeling their energy.”

They discovered not only the samurai spirit here, taking in a samurai training session for local children, but also experienced the resilience of the people after the destruction of the earthquake and tsunami.

“The local pride was truly remarkable,” Mattias says. “The weight of their experience with the tsunami is still heavy, but they have a love for their homeland unlike anything I’ve seen. After the disasters the locals could have left to live elsewhere in the country, but they chose to stay and rebuild which is a true testament to their human spirit.”

One more reason to experience a unique and still-not-overrun part of snowy Japan!

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AIZU RESORTS

In addition to the three main Aizu resorts listed here, there are 15 other smaller resorts in the region to explore that are even more likely to provide an uncrowded, Japanese experience.

Hoshino Resort Nekoma Mountain
This is a big area, combining the former Alts Bandai and Nekoma ski areas, with 33 courses and thirteen lifts spread out over the north and south sides of Mt. Nekomagatake. The area provides very different views and snow conditions, with light powder on the north-facing slopes.
Web: nekoma.co.jp

Grandeco Snow Resort
Located in the Urabandai section of Aizu, and known for deep powder snow, the base of Grandeco is above 1,000 meters, helping ensure the quality of the snow, while the lifts are all hooded to keep skiers warm on the way up. Ungroomed runs are available.
Web: resort.en-hotel.com/grandeco/snow/ja/

Inawashiro Ski Resort
As the name implies, this ski area has great views of Lake Inawashiro, as well as Mt. Bandai. Lots of wide open spaces make this a good choice for beginners and intermediates, while there are challenging runs up high that often provide powder conditions.
Web: inawashiro-ski.com

Getting to Aizu
For most people, the train is the smart way to travel in snow country. Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Koriyama Station (about 90 minutes). Then transfer to the Banetsu West Line to Inawashiro Station (about 45 minutes). Most hotels and resorts provide shuttle buses from the station (be sure to check ahead with your lodgings). If you are experienced driving in snow country, renting a car can be convenient, but make sure you have snow tires and 4WD. If not, you are asking for trouble.

Ski and snowboarding gear can be a pain to handle on trains, so another good option is a direct bus from Tokyo Station to several destinations around the Inawashiro area. You can also takyubin (the convenient courier service) from the airport or from hotels in Japan to your ski lodging. v